In a sea of saffron, he stands out with his skull cap and gray beard. To the first time visitor, a board reading ‘Mullah Ji Light waale’ (Mullah Ji, the lighting man) at the Kumbh Mela may be an odd sight but to the Sadhus who have gathered at the confluence of the Ganga and the Yamuna, Mohammed Mehmood aka Mullah Ji is a permanent feature of every Kumbh. To some, he is even a friend. Mehmood is a 76-year-old businessman from Muzaffarnagar in Western UP. In 1986, he got in touch with the Sadhus of the Juna Akhara, believed to be the largest and one of the fiercest Akharas of the Naga Sadhus – an ancient order of warrior monks. They hired him to set up the lights around their tents. Now once every six years, he travels over 800 kms to Allahabad, now named Prayagraj, and camps out at the Kumbh Mela.